5 dishes that you simply must try in Kolkata – Mint Lounge

In the 1991 film, Agantuk (The Stranger) Satyajit Ray captures the essence of a sit-down Bengali meal. The protagonist, Anila, presents quite a spread for the guest—a man, who claims to be her uncle, and is back after having left home 35 years ago. First comes the palong shaker ghonto, a mish-mash of sorts made with spinach, radish, pumpkin and other seasonal veggies, quickly followed by the goyna bori, which he describes as “edible embroideries.” As he bites into it, the guest’s face instantly lights up. 

Also read: What can be more warming than bisi bele bhaat this winter?

The pull of  dishes, typically made in Kolkata, is now being felt worldwide with even lesser-known preparations becoming accessible to people, thanks to social media. Last week, the metro became the only Indian city to be part of the list of the world’s best food desitinations for 2023 compiled by the popular website, Eater.  

Bengali cuisine has long been believed to be swoon-worthy. While some dishes pack in quite a spicy punch, others, especially the desserts, are all heart. Though dishes such as macher jhol, aloo poshto, and sandesh have been popularised over the years, some lesser-known delicacies introduce diners to unique flavours. Lounge lists a selection of some familiar and other lesser-known delicacies. 

Bhetki macher paturi

A slow-cooked delight, this fish delicacy shines the spotlight on mustard. According to food historian Pritha Sen, the word “paturi” is derived from “patri”, meaning a tablet. This refers to how paturi is cooked in a flat layer on low heat. Bhetki is cut into medium pieces and marinated in a paste of ground mustard, green chillies, turmeric, mustard oil, and salt. Variations of the recipes include the addition of yoghurt, coconut, or poppy seed paste. The marinated fish fillets are layered on top of each other and wrapped individually in banana leaves, tied with a thread, and either steamed or roasted on a low-heat pan.

Also read: Winter special: Recipes for sarson ka saag and makki ki roti

[embedded content]

Neem begun

While Kolkata’s begun bhaja is a well-known side dish, neem begun is another dish, which tastes delicious when cooked right. Neem leaves are tossed into a frying pan with some mustard oil and cooked until they are crispy. Brinjal or eggplants are cut into small cubes, marinated with salt and turmeric, and fried in the same oil. Neem leaves are added to this, either crushed or whole. The eggplants are fried until soft but intact.

[embedded content]

Thorer ghonto

Traditional Bengali cooking emphasises on reducing food waste by using every part of the plant. In this dish, the banana stem takes the centre stage. After removing the outermost layer,  the inner surface is peeled until the fibrous core appears. The fibres between each slice are plucked out. The dish is made by mixing fried potatoes and spices, after which the dish is tempered with the julienned banana stem until it is soft. Raisins and sugar are added towards the end and topped off with a dollop of ghee. This dish is served with rice.

Also read: Makar Sankranti recipe: How to make sweet pongal like a chef

[embedded content]

Rosho-puli

This sweet is a type of pithe, which is made with coconut and semolina (sooji) dumplings cooked in sweetened milk, flavoured with green cardamom. In a pan, freshly grated coconut, semolina, sugar and cardamom powder are mixed until the sugar melts and the mixture forms a lump. While it is still warm, roll it into small, oval-shaped balls. To make the sweetened milk, simmer milk with sugar and a pinch of salt. Dunk the balls in it and add more sugar, if needed. The rosho-puli should have a sauce-like consistency. Serve while warm.

[embedded content]

Bel’er shorbot

Wood apple, or bael is used to make this special sharbat. Milk, sugar, and salt are added to the bael pulp, which is strained through a mesh. It’s mixed until the sugar dissolves and served chilled.

[embedded content]

Also read: Toasting to new beginnings with Ginuary