Kolkata: ‘Pice hotels’ beat pandemic & price rise, stay pocket-friendly – Times of India

Kolkata News

Kolkata’s ‘pice hotels’ – most of them over hundred years old and steeped in history – continue to brave the pincer attack of pandemic and price rise and still serve hearty meals at affordable rates to the city’s hungry workers, traders, students and office-goers.
To stay afloat they have cut costs, tweaked rates by 5%-10%, added and subtracted dishes from their menus but have kept the price of the basic rice-sabzi-fish thali at around Rs 50. The changing demands of the city and the lockdown have felled a few like Simla Hotel on Bidhan Sarani and Hatkhola Grand Hotel in Sovabazar, but the others are keeping the tradition alive.
‘Pice hotels’ derive their name from ‘paisa’, the lowest denomination of the Indian rupee. Scores of ‘pice hotels’ came up in Kolkata in the early 1900s to provide wholesome nourishment at a cheap rate to workers and students who lived in messbaris or low-cost accommodations for working men and students. These eateries would serve meals on banana leaf to customers seated on floor mats. The price and the menu would change daily, depending upon what was available in the market that morning and the items and prices would be handwritten on blackboards.
The over 100-years-old Jaganmata Bhojonalaya on Kailash Bose Street is perhaps the only ‘pice hotel’ where they still have the floor sitting arrangement along with the regular table-chair set up. They continue to serve meals in bronze utensils topped by banana leaf and water in earthen bhanrs. Eggs and chicken are still not allowed inside the eatery.
“Despite the soaring prices we still serve basic rice-sabzi-fish (rohu) meals at Rs 45,” said Umakanta Mishra, one of the owners, adding that “hiked prices and low footfall after the pandemic” have hampered business.
Another eatery, Jagannath Hotel on College Street, was once frequented by the likes of writer Mahasweta Devi and singer Manna Dey. “We have not changed the prices of rice, vegetables or Rohu fish, which cost less than Rs 100 and are still in demand by regular customers. The rates of other items have been raised by 5%-10%,” said third-generation owner Manas Mondal.
‘Eatery not just business, but part of our heritage’
Tucked in the alley behind New Market, Hotel Sidheshwari Ashram has been serving its patrons since the early 1900s. Sisters-in-law Rita and Debjani Sen are the current owners of the place which was once visited by thespians Chhabi Biswas and Tulsi Chakraborty.
“My father said those who come to the hotel for a meal should not go back hungry. Here, they can get a hearty meal at Rs 50,” said Rita. “We have temporarily discontinued kobirajhi jhol, a light fish curry with vegetables and one of our specialties, because there are hardly any takers. Over the years, the office crowd has thinned as many government offices have been shifted. During the pandemic, many have moved to digital delivery platforms,” she said, fearing that ‘pice hotels’ will be lost forever.
Hotel Tarun Niketan near Rashbehari Metro station is another century-old establishment that continues to be popular. Business suffered during the pandemic but YouTube videos and vlogs helped them regain some of the losses, said Arun Deb, one of the owners. “Young people frequent our place and often refer to the food vlogs when ordering,” he said.
Established in 1927 by Man Gobind Ponda, Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel, originally known as Hindu Hotel, was both a hideout and the venue for clandestine meetings for revolutionaries. “Previously, the hotel was on Bhawani Dutta Lane behind Presidency College. Many stalwarts, including Netaji, were regular visitors,” said Arunansu Ponda, who now runs his grandfather’s business.
“The eatery is not just a business but part of our history and heritage. We wish to carry on the legacy,” he said. Steeped in history, Young Bengal Hotel in Kidderpore area been running since 1930s. Tarapada Guha named his hotel after the radical movement started by Henry Louis Vivian Derozio to reform society. Pritha Ray Bardhan, granddaughter of Guha, said:
“Rare dishes cooked by mothers and grandmothers are available here. But unfortunately, we are running at a loss. I am still running it because of my love and nostalgia for this place but I am not sure how long this heritage eatery will stay afloat.”

Source: https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/kolkata/kolkata-pice-hotels-beat-pandemic-price-rise-stay-pocket-friendly/articleshow/91223927.cms